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Penang, a 111-square-mile island off the west coast of Malaysia, gets its name from the betel nut tree, called "pinang" in Malaysian. While some residents still chew betel nuts, you'll probably be more interested in sinking your teeth into the astonishing variety of foods available in this culinary capital. Add in the historic architecture that boosted port city George Town onto UNESCO's World Heritage list, plus the rich blend of cultures, and Penang makes for a rewarding destination.
Located at the northern entry to the Strait of Malacca, the island was used for centuries as a safe harbor for traders from China, India, Arabia and Europe. British Captain Francis Light arranged to have Penang ceded by the Sultan of Kedah to the British East India Company in 1786 in return for promised military protection. With the construction of Fort Cornwallis and the founding of George Town (named after King George III), Penang became Britain's first stronghold in Southeast Asia. Trade flourished -- including rubber, tin and opium -- and attracted fortune-seekers from around the world. The island was captured by the Japanese in World War II and became part of the independent state of Malaysia in 1957.
Today, the population of the state of Penang (which, in addition to the island, also includes a slice of the mainland) totals about 1.75 million; George Town's population is about 738,000, primarily ethnic Chinese, followed by Malays and Indians. The Peranakans, also known as Straits-born Chinese, represent a distinct subculture. In the past, Chinese traders married Malay women, and the blending of the cultures created hybrid customs, foods and dress.
Penang's melting pot of cultures contributes to its fascinating food scene, as well as to its many places of worship, including Hindu temples, Muslim mosques and colonial-era Christian churches. Now, UNESCO recognition has brought a new influx of tourists. George Town's crumbling "shophouses" are being rehabbed into boutique hotels, while outside the city, shopping malls and luxury housing have sprung up along beaches.
The cruise season is fairly well timed to coincide with Penang's drier months of January and February. The equatorial climate keeps it hot year-round (74 to 90 degrees) with fierce sun, so plan accordingly when heading ashore.
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