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The Rhone has always been a fierce waterway. Originating in the Swiss Alps, the torrent becomes navigable by larger vessels once it reaches Lyon, but still the river's strong current made the journey from the sea a rugged, demanding one. Following World War II, 12 locks were constructed to elevate vessels 200 miles upriver from the Mediterranean to Lyon, 485 feet above sea level.
Fortunately, those locks also serve as gateways, allowing us to enjoy the French countryside from the inside out, with stops along the way to take in the history and culture, the food and wine.
France's third-largest city was founded by the Romans in the first century B.C. The old city, Vieux Lyon, is UNESCO World Heritage site listed for its medieval and Renaissance houses and architecture, including some 300 "traboules," odd little public passageways through private property. Lyon is also renowned for its gastronomic cuisine, and just north lies the wine region of Beaujolais, which Viking's included tour visits.
Don't miss: The original center of Lyon was Lugdunum, built on the slopes of Fourviere, a hill descending into the city. You can wander up footpaths from Vieux Lyon or opt for the funicular ride that departs from just above the Vieux Lyon metro station. At the summit is the Grand Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourviere, built in the late 19th century and commanding a superb viewpoint overlooking the city and its rivers. Inside are exquisite mosaics, and up above, 90-minute rooftop tours allow you to have Lyon at your feet. The tours are conducted Wednesdays, Saturdays and Sundays for most of the year, and daily in summer (fourviere.org). If you wend your way back to the city on foot, take a right on Montee Saint-Barthelemy and you'll pass by the old Roman theater built around 15 B.C. to serve an audience of up to 10,000.
Independent meanderings: While it's not the Louvre, the Museum of Fine Arts of Lyon contains one of France's best art hordes outside Paris. The permanent collection ranges from a trove of Egyptian antiquities to contemporary artworks, with paintings by Van Gogh, Monet, Renoir and Tintoretto represented. An English-language audio guide is available, and recommended; closed Tuesday. At the tip of Presqu'ile is the Musee des Confluences, worth discovering both for its striking, modern architecture of metal and glass as well as its collection focused on science and natural history. Four permanent exhibitions -- Origins, Species, Societies and Eternities -- and excellent temporary shows are offered. Don't miss the rooftop terrace with its sweeping panorama of Lyon, with the Alps and Mont Blanc as a backdrop.
Active pursuits: Lyon is defined by two fabled rivers, the Rhone and the Saone, and Lyon Canoe provides guided canoe and kayak trips down the latter, which hugs the old city. Choose from a 5- or 7.5-mile route, or try a stand-up paddle-board cruise down the Rhone. Suitable for beginners, the guided tours end at La Confluence, the tip of the peninsula where the Rhone and Saone meet.
Insider tips: Bouchons, small bistros typically started by women cooks (known as the mothers of Lyon) are synonymous with Lyon and found nowhere else in France. In Vieux Lyon try Aux Trois Maries, one of the oldest. You'll find traditional Lyonnaise cuisine based on seasonal produce and dishes such as chicken flambe in cognac, pike quenelles or pork sausage sauteed with pistachios, served in an unpretentious setting with tables facing the lively square. The restaurant is at 1 rue Trois Maries in the St-Jean district.
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