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The "City of Popes" was home to seven pontiffs during the 14th century, a tumultuous period for the Catholic Church. During that time, before there was a Vatican, a Gothic palace of the popes was built in Avignon. Today, this UNESCO World Heritage site is surrounded by a medieval wall which shelters a surprisingly inviting city.
Don't miss: The largest Gothic palace built, the Palais des Papes is the focus of this included tour, and it is well worth a visit -- even though, when the seat moved back to Rome, the church took every book, every rug and every piece of silverware with them! Yes, the palace is almost bare today. But, the imposing, immense chambers speak to the power of the church during the medieval era, and you'll get a glimpse of the naturalistic, secular frescos in private apartments where popes lived, an anomaly for the period.
Independent meanderings: Several museums are worth exploring, including the Musee Angladon showcasing Italian and Provencal paintings from the 19th and 20th centuries. In addition to works by Picasso, Degas and Cezanne, "Railway Carriages," the only Van Gogh in Provence, can be seen here. The Musee Louis Vouland is a decorative arts museum that features furnishings, tapestries and a horde of porcelain from the 17th and 18th centuries, along with themed exhibitions.
Active pursuits: Provence is made for cycling, and although places like Mont Ventoux demand Tour de France-worthy thighs, much of the area around Avignon offers gentler riding. South Spirit Bike offers guided two- and three-hour tours of Avignon or to the nearby village of Villeneuve, or you can rent road bikes, mountain bikes or e-bikes by the half-day or longer, for trips to Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Taval or the Frigolet Forest, about 30 miles round trip.
Insider tips: Located just a stone's throw from the Palais des Papes, the Restaurant Christiane Etienne is housed in a building that's at least a century older than the pope's place, oozing with a history of chamberlains and queens. Today, it's a Michelin-starred gastronomic splurge, and although dinner will set you back about 100 euros (around $110 per person, plus drinks, the three-course lunch, perhaps on the cool terrace following a tour of the palace, is a worthy fine-dining experience for 38 euros (around $40). Book your reservation before leaving home.
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