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The largest city in Normandy and its capital, Rouen dates back to the 12th century with a heritage that spotlights the disparate trio of Joan of Arc, Claude Monet and Julia Child. It, like Vernon, has a plethora of half-timbered buildings. Joan of Arc, canonized as a saint of the Catholic Church, is a national hero who, as a young girl with a belief in the divine guidance of God, led the French army to success during a Hundred Years' War battle at Orleans. The British eventually captured her as a heretic and burned her at the stake in Rouen's Place du Vieux-Marche. Monet's connection with Rouen lies primarily with his fascination with the facade of the Gothic-Norman Cathedrale Notre-Dame; he painted a series of oils. And for Julia Child, in Rouen she had, as she wrote in "My Life in France," "the most exciting meal of her life" -- which also inspired her passion for French cuisine.
Don't Miss: A walking tour of Rouen's medieval quarter takes in the city's most iconic sites, such as Notre Dame Cathedral (buried inside is Richard the Lionheart), and the Gros Horloge astronomical clock. A statue in the Place du Vieux-Marche marks the spot where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake -- the Eglise Ste-Jeanne-d' Arc, built in the 1970s, presents an odd contrast to the square's otherwise historic ambience. Normandy is famed for its foodstuffs, particularly cheese and apples; an extra-fee tour features a visit to a Norman farm with plenty of opportunities for tasting, including Calvados (an apple liqueur), Norman cheese and apple tarts. And, from Rouen, our ship also offered a half-day visit to enchanting Honfleur.
Independent Meanderings: The Rouen Museum of Fine Art showcases European artists, such as Fragonard, Monet, Pissarro, Duchamp and Caravaggio, from the 15th century to contemporary times. La Couronne, the restaurant immortalized by Julia Child (and featured in "Julie & Julia," although the scene was not filmed there), is a great lunch or dinner stop for classic Normandy cuisine. Located in a 14th-century half-timbered building, the ambience reflects its history, and the food superb. (Order Julia's menu, including a half-dozen Brittany oysters and Dover sole, and if you splurge on the cheese tray, you won't regret it). Advance booking (you can reserve online) is recommended, and our ship's Child fans went for lunch and/or dinner (I was tempted to do both!).
Active Pursuits: Cycling on towpaths lining the Seine.
Insider Tips: The farthest any ocean ship can get up the Seine is Rouen; it's fun to see both riverboats and ocean-going vessels in port.
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