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Although he only spent 15 months here, Van Gogh's stay in Arles represented one of the artist's most prolific periods -- he created some 200 paintings, plus drawings and watercolors in 1888–1889. But, the city also contains some of the most important Roman ruins in France, and as the gateway between the Rhone River Valley and the Mediterranean, it maintains much of its Provencal aura. The Longships dock in Tarascon, a smaller town 12 miles upriver from Arles. If your visit takes place in early August, the drive to Arles will treat you to fields of sunflowers at the peak of bloom. And, if coming on a Wednesday or Saturday morning, be sure to check out the traditional Provencal market in Arles.
Don't miss: The Arena in Arles is smaller than Rome's Colosseum, but more intact and a stirring reminder of the sprawl of the Roman empire at its peak. Built in A.D. 90, just a decade after the Colosseum, the arena could seat more than 20,000 spectators for gladiator games. But, during the Dark Ages, the entire town of Arles was moved inside to guard against the bubonic plague. The arena is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site, along with other Arles monuments including the Baths of Constantine, the theater and forum.
Independent meanderings: Although none of the artist's works are in a permanent collection in Arles, the Vincent Van Gogh Foundation regularly shows his work as part of larger exhibitions. The architecture of the museum, adapted from a 15th-century townhouse, is stirring and includes an entrance gate by Bertrand Lavier and a glass piece above the bookshop by Raphael Hefti; the lovely terrace offers a view of the city, the Rhone River and Montmajour Abbey. The tourism office offers a guide and itinerary to the sites around Arles where Van Gogh set up his easel.
Active pursuits: A short walk from the dock in Tarascon is an imposing castle that rises abruptly from the banks of the river. Completed in 1411 by Louis II, Tarascon Castle was built to reinforce the Provence border, though by the 17th century the sentinel served mainly as a prison. Allow an hour to explore this rugged outpost.
Insider tips: The optional tour to Les Baux and the Carrieres de Lumieres is a tantalizing two-fer. Les Baux-de-Provence is a tiny village sitting atop a spectacular rock outcrop, located 10 miles east of Arles. The village is crowded with day visitors in summer but car-free and intoxicating for an hour or two. Nearby, the Carrieres de Lumieres is an immersive sound and light show conducted inside former limestone quarries, on 50-foot-high walls. The theme of the one-hour show is different each year -- past editions have featured the works of Gaugin and the Renaissance; the current edition is Van Gogh.
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